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, by Charles Spence
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Product details
File Size: 18168 KB
Print Length: 334 pages
Page Numbers Source ISBN: 0735223467
Publisher: Penguin Books; Reprint edition (June 20, 2017)
Publication Date: June 20, 2017
Sold by: Penguin Group (USA) LLC
Language: English
ASIN: B01N0ACE40
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If this description of a Futurist meal appeals to you (on any level) you might like this book:"Pieces of olive, fennel, and kumquat are eaten with the right hand while the left hand caresses various swatches of sandpaper, velvet, and silk. At the same time, the diner is blasted with a giant fan (preferably an airplane propeller) and nimble waiters spray him with the scent of carnation, all to the strains of a Wagner opera."I was not amused, especially when each of the many meals and techniques described in Gastromania seemed designed to see if it could be more extreme than the last!The description of the book from the publisher stressed science, and there was some of that sprinkled through, but there was WAY too much of the bizarre and often obscenely overpriced and pretentious. Even when some science or at least fact-finding was mentioned, too often the mention was not very informative. For example, the author cited that Pizza Hut UK was able to increase customer purchases by an average of more than 20% by a big data analysis project. This piqued my interest, but he never told us what they found out! My inquiring mind is much more interested in that than in descriptions like the meal above. In addition, some of the science is simply wrong. For example, in the discussion of supertasters , the author says that supertasting is associated with a liking for bitter-tasting foods. According to the lecture I attended at the American Association for the Advancement of Science annual meeting a few years ago, that is the exact opposite of their preference---the extra papillae on their tongues make them so sensitive they cannot tolerate too strong a bitter flavor.I had high hopes for the book and did pick up a few nice tidbits, like the term “anosmiaâ€, which is an inability to smell some volatile chemical or other, but ultimately Gastrophysics was just not to my taste.
I'm loving this book and I haven't even finished it yet. My husband may not like it since several times a day I'm telling him something interesting I read in this book. But I think in the end he will love it since I'm applying some of the interesting things I've learned to make my own homecooked food "taste" better! Did you know choosing the right plate, or silverware, background music, or food arrangement can make your food taste better! And so many other interesting facts. I love learning, I love food, I love learning about how we "tick" through the combination of physiology and psychology and this book gives an interesting meld of it all with research and science and really easy to read!
Ordered as gift for professional chef. He loved the book.
Gastrophysics is a manual for restaurants. It lays out in very precise terms how to affect the meal, the satisfaction, enjoyment and memorability of the event. The advice comes from Charles Spence’s day job, running a gastrophysics lab in Oxford, where human guinea pigs give up their secrets – secret from themselves mostly. Things like how the shape of plates or their tint affect the experience. Why airline food tastes less than fabulous (there are four very good reasons). How rotating the plate changes the entire impression of the meal. How spraying food fragrances warms up the audience. How the sound of crispness changes our attitude. How the weight of cutlery changes our impression. How putting up a sign (Italy Week) and using red checkered tablecloths make diners think the same Italian menu items from always are suddenly fresher and more authentic. How eating off a tablet computer screen (as a plate) allows for a background video to complement the food.Who knew the act of eating could be so complex? Every one of the five senses plays major role in our experience. Each one gets its own chapter to start the book off in a highly detailed and instructive, not to say addictive manner. Smell works in two areas – before the food enters the mouth and at the back of the throat. Smell alone has a direct connection to the brain, giving it by far the most influence on our appreciation. Taste, by comparison, is a weakling limited to five sensations. Food in motion (bacon sizzling, cheese flowing, yolks oozing) is a proven irresistible visual in advertising.There are endless experiments restaurants have tried. In order to get everyone in a good mood, one placed mooing cylinders (and nothing else) on its tables. With nothing else to fiddle with, people picked them up, tilted them, and they mooed, quickly causing everyone in the room to do the same, with resultant universal laughter. Controlling the setting is critical, which is why some high end places make you drive 50 miles out of town, and others in the city center allow no windows at all. All these and hundreds more factors are proven motivators of the palate.Unfortunately, we don’t remember food as much as the experience. We remember the setting, the service, the lighting, and the comfort better than the food itself. This is frustrating for super chefs, and they constantly to try to improve the memorability factor, not with the food, but with sideshows. In a nod back at supper clubs with floor shows, they use gimmicks like mp3 players, aroma sprays, live musicians, motorized dessert carts and robot servers to make the event memorable. This leads to a problem with the book: the last third is all about these extraneous attempts to make events memorable, well outside the scope of gastrophysics. The potential of battery-operated forks and fur-covered spoons is beyond. Another problem with Gastophysics is that it is mostly about the superrich restaurateurs. Spence loves citing world-renown establishments, constantly and repeatedly. The kind of places that charge upwards of £300/$400 (and up to £1000) for a set tasting. They are his peeps. But they are the exception. Also, the many soft, black and white images are less than appetizing. Finally, Spence has a nasty habit of overusing exclamation points! Oddly for a scientist so finely attuned to the subtleties of fine tuning, their use is confusing and distracting!The overall impression is overwhelming, making Gastrophysics a go-to reference for the food industry. And yes, you can and should try these things at home.David Wineberg
Spence allows his sense of humor to shine through as he highlights this emerging field targeting both fine dining and that of each of us in our own cultural realm of eating. Certainly, not everyone will embrace these trends, but if you are in the industry, one needs to be aware of their composite and direction. At the very least, it will expand one's appreciation of the science of eating.
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